BEYOUND GOOD AND EVIL ....
Foods are not good or evil.
People are not good or evil for eating foods.
As she put it: “It’s food. We all eat it. Move on.”
These
are wise words, but not everyone wants to hear them. Why is that? Why
do we moralize so much about foods and our relationships to them?
Isn’t life already hard enough? Can’t we focus on enjoyment, pleasure,
and satisfaction or various needs by eating food without castigating
ourselves?
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As
a philosopher who does research on eating, agency, and identity in
public health, I think about these questions a lot. Right now, I’m back
in Sydney, Australia for a month to work on a qualitative study on
eating, dieting, and our evolving relationships with food. When we have
some data analyzed I’ll be blogging about it.
However, I do have some thoughts to add about so-called “healthy” or “clean” eating.
We
all have food preferences– what we like to eat, what we love to eat,
what we won’t eat even if you pay us. For example, I am just not going
to eat cottage cheese. I know it’s irrational, but it grosses me out.

We
also have our own ideals or principles of what constitutes “healthy”
eating for us. We get a ton of information from a variety of sources
(which are sometimes confusing– are eggs good or bad this year?)
We also use our own experiences to help us figure out what is
healthy-for-us or good-for-us (which may differ from others’
experiences). One commenter on Tracy’s blog said that she found that
eating a lot of rice many days in a row wasn’t good for her. It’s not
the rice, she said; it’s just about how she feels when she eats it.
Our
food preferences and our healthy eating ideals often come into
conflict. I happen to love pasta dishes of all sorts. I also know
that 1) eating a lot of pasta makes me feel sluggish; 2) I have a
tendency to overeat pasta (to the point of feeling uncomfortable and
then remorseful and self-recriminating) when it’s easily available; 3) I
don’t want to ban pasta from my diet forever. So I try to limit my
access to pasta to situations where my pasta intake will be constrained,
say, at a restaurant or when I’m cooking for friends. This gnocchi
with pesto dish looks delicious, doesn’t it?

I
don’t tend to have pasta in my house, as I know from experience that I
tend to overeat it and then feel bad about the overeating. This is
clearly not the pasta’s fault. Pasta is beyond good and evil.
Maybe
it’s not really my fault, either. What I mean is that my relationship
with pasta is complicated. I’d like it to be less burdened, to feel
like I could eat it in a way that both satisfies my food preferences and
wouldn’t result in shame or regret. And I’ve tried. But honestly, it
just doesn’t work very well FOR ME to have regular access to pasta.
I
discussed this issue with a nutritionist I was seeing a few years ago.
She was clearly against my restricting or eliminating any foods from my
diet, arguing that foods were not good or bad; rather they all
contributed in different ways to fueling me. She added, “you don’t want
to be a person who can’t have pasta, do you?” I responded, “well,
maybe I am one of those people.” And that possibility is neither good
nor evil.
Pasta
isn’t good or evil, healthy or unhealthy, clean or.. uh, dirty? You
know what I mean. I’m not bad or good for eating or not eating it. It’s
food. We eat it. Or not eat it. And we move on to the next thing in
our day.
I
agree with Tracy that being a food moralist undermines us in a lot of
ways. I guess I would describe myself as a food pragmatist. That is,
we eat what works for us. We figure out what works through a
complicated process of experimenting, reading and learning, forming some
goals for ourselves about what health means to us, taking into account
our preferences and constraints (economic, social, geographic, cultural,
etc.).
I
know, this seems like a lot of work just to figure out what to have for
lunch. Would that all our relationships– with our bodies, with food,
with alcohol, with sex, with money– could be light and easy. But if
some of these relationships are constrained, or difficult or unstable,
then maybe we can approach them not with moralism and judgment, but with
a sense of what we want and what we think we can get from them. I can
get pleasure from eating pasta, but not if I eat a lot of it or if I eat
it very often. Okay, fine. I can live with that. And at the same
time:

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